The landmark that everyone has to see in Jericoacoara is the immense rock structure, the so-called ‘Pedra Furada’. It’s situated some way from the village along the western coastline of the park and there’s a steady stream of guided hikes there. Save yourself the R$50-100 and just walk yourself, it’s super easy to get there and only takes around 40 minutes. Here’s a mixture of recollections from my hikes along the path…
Overlooking Praia da Malhada and Jericoacoara village from the trailhead.
It only came upon us as we were clambering along the cliffs, a tiny exploration Phyllis and I embarked on, heading west from Praia da Malhada. We were still trying to orient ourselves to Jeri and this side of town seemed a much better place to explore than the crowded beach and the sunset dune. When the tide started coming in and water lapped at the cliffs’ edges we were forced upward and suddenly found ourselves in a wild cactus garden.
Looking out over the ocean, I found it hard to believe the colors. They were just as vivid as the first time, but the sun was shining brighter, leaving the ocean an even more unbelievably saturated blue-green aquamarine.
I’m following D and the other guys, glad I brought my havaianas so my feet don’t burn in the sunbaked sand. The cacti look trippy, popping up around me as we traverse the vegetated area where small birds fly between the brush in a twinkling of an eye.
Down below the water crashes into and around the cliffs. Sometimes it’s so rapid and other times the water runs down almost in slow motion. When the water recedes you can see all the colors in the rocks… purples, reds, yellows, greens.
Left behind are tiny tide pools where fish swim about and jacuzzi sized natural pools where you can stare out at the water below. The water is warm, but I get cold anyway because it’s always windy here.
The wind catches my friend’s hat and blows it onto the cliffs below.
Shells crackle under my shoes when we descend to the beach. Here are the familiar purple rocks running beneath my feet that signal the hike is near it’s end. It’s raining on and off now, very lightly, moody clouds floating over us. Phyllis and I climb over the ridge and see a few people already there and, of course, the giant rock. The tide is growing and water swirls in through the hole and laps at its point. In my head I’m thanking the photography gods for the sky, melancholy and perfect for bringing out the intense orange and red trails on the rock and the stark contrasting aqua ocean backdrop.
We get through our obligatory photos before it starts raining hard. Everyone decides to take shelter in the sizable hole, but it’s not the best idea considering the rising water and we’re all forced out shortly. Just as quickly as it started it stops.
There’s some more beaches beyond the Pedra Furada if you continue on, but we decide to stay close. Here the water is strong, but still good to swim in. We play around in the water for some time before setting back, arriving back at the beach just before sunset. Finally a day with clouds and while the boys write in the sand I catch the most epic sunset than I’ve managed to see in Jericoacoara.